Surfboard

What is a surfboard?

The word surfboard means the long, small board that is used for surfing. Surfing is popular in coastal regions on the whole world. You stand or lie on a surfboard and ride on the waves of the ocean. The size and form of the surfboard depends on the experience of the surfers and which kind of wave they want to ride. Back in the days surfboards were usually made of wood, but now most of the modern surfboards consist of foam and are covered with fiberglass and synthetic resin, which makes them light and easy to swim on water.

Should I choose a long, wide or thick board for surfing?

Longer boards are easier to paddle and to stand on, that’s why experts recommend beginner surfers, to start surfing with a longer surfboard. The wider a surfboard is, the more stable it is. Wider surfboards are therefore more suitable for beginners or surfer who want to ride bigger waves. The thickness of a surfboard decides on how well the board floats on the water. A bigger board floats better and offers a calmer and more stable feeling, especially in bigger waves

“I like the city. I like the concrete. I like big business. I like being a CEO of my own company and having a lot of responsibilities. At the same time, when I can go off with a backpack or off on a surfboard or even off on a run somewhere in the woods – that’s where I’m really happy.”

(Matthew McConaughey)

The development of the surfboard from a Longboard to a Shortboard

The old Hawaiians and the beginnings of surfing

Maybe you have also imagined, to surf one day like a big Hawaiian on a huge Longboard. Because that’s exactly the origin of surfing. In the beginning of surfing, the first Hawaiian kings were standing on two kinds of surfboards. The “Olo” (usually exclusive to the king or the head of the tribe) and the “Alaia”, which was surfed by the common people. The boards were shaped from the wood of the Wiliwili, the Ula-Tree and the Koa-Acacia. Depending on the social stand the boards were between ten to 16 feet (three to five meter) long.

Balsa Boards and de development of the surfboard

In the 1930s balsawood was made to build surfboards. If was much lighter than the old boards. Instead of about 50 kilograms, the balsa boards „only“ weighed around 20 kilograms. Such a weight reduction was a big step, to make the boards more maneuverable.

The American Tom Blake was one of the first to mass-produce surfboards and brought surfing to the 20^th century. He was also the first to put a fin in his surfboard to be able to better turn his board.

Development of Fiberglass surfboards

After the second world war, the surfboard shapers had gained new materials and techniques. Fiberglass and plastic or STYROPOR were ideal material to build boards of. The first fiberglass board was built by Pete Peterson in the mid 1940s and the Californian Bob Simmons perfected this building manner by the end of the decade. The boards were still between nine and eleven feet long (three to four meter); still far away from nowadays Shortboards.

Big Wave Boards enter the surfboard world

In the 1950s big wave surfing became popular on Hawaii. George Downing was one of the pioneers and developed a new board for the big waves. He shaped a long but slim surfboard to get easier to the Line-Up and control the board better in the big waves. They called the board Gun, since it was used to hunt for big waves. Today, the Gun is still the board of choice for big waves and usually between nine and twelve foot long.

 Shortboard Revolution starts in the late 1960s

In the late 1960s finally started the evolution of the Shortboard. From roughly ten feet the Surfboard shrank down to six feet. The consequence: The boards were lighter and much easier to maneuver. Radical turns and deep barrel rides were now possible. The style of surfing changed fundamentally! Shapers like the Californian Dick Brewer were significantly responsible for the evolution of the Shortboard. The set-up of the fins also changed thanks to Simon Anderson with his three-fin-set-up called “Thruster”. Ever since, modern surfboards have three or four fins.

By the end of the 1960s and the beginning of the 1970s the first Shortboards were spotted at the beaches. The size development from ten to six feet was quite the sensation. With these boards surfers were finally able to surf the pocket of the wave (the part of the wave, which is right next to the peak). In 1966 the Australian Nat Young won the World Championships on his Shortboard. It was built by George Greenouh and Bob McTavish and enabled Nat to surf harder turns and stylish maneuvers.

How do I find the perfect Surfboard?

To find the perfect surfboard is almost impossible. Even professionals usually plan for months or even years with their shapers in the workshops to discuss about rocker-lines, fin-set-ups, volume etc.

For beginner or intermediate surfers, it usually doesn’t matter that much, if the board is a foot longer or an inch wider. It is more important to spent time in the water and work on the surfing skills.

How many fins belong under a surfboard?

Installing three fins under a board had been the plan of the shaper for a while. They experimented a lot and finally Simon Andersen was successfully implemented this idea in 1981. With the third fin the performance got much better – the thruster was born. It united the advantages of a single-fin surfboard with those of a twinser. It was now possible to perform radical maneuvers and throw more spray.

Since the 80s there were no fundamental changes in building Shortboards. Then a push followed because of foam materials and processing methods, which made new boards lighter and thinner. That was the foundation for the current new-school surfing with its Airs and other tricks on the wave.

Which mistakes can you do when choosing a surfboard?

In general the biggest and most common mistake is the choice of a board with too little buoyancy (too short and/or too slim, and/or too thin). Many surfers use the board sizes of professional surfers as a guideline for their decision and completely ignore their individual possibilities. If you change for example too early to a board with too little volume, your learning process will slow down and you will have less fun when surfing.

 What happens if my board has too little buoyancy?

With a board with too little buoyancy you will get less waves, have less fun and little progress in learning. That’s why we want to explain to you the most important surfboard types in detail. It is important, that you are aware of the differences so you can take them into account when choosing or buying a board. Every board comes with a lot of thought and ideas. We like to remind you, that there is no such thing as the perfect shape – there is only the most suitable shape for a specific surfer at a specific day on a specific wave.

How do the various surfboard types differ from one another?

By now there are of course innumerous shapes and types of surfboards and it’s hard to tell on first sight, which board belongs to which category. The types of surfboards differ in the following:

• Buoyancy (which affects the catching of the waves)
• Stability (when paddling and surfing)
• Speed (when paddling and surfing)
• Maneuverability

For a first differentiation between the types of surfboards  we will use the following shapes and the forms developed from them. Longboard (Malibu), Mini-Malibu, Funboard, Shortboard, Fish as well as Semi-Gun and Gun. The limits vary depending on who you ask and cross at times.

How are surfboards measured? Feet and Inches

The measurements of a surfboard are given around the world in Foot (1 Foot = 30,48cm) and Inches (1 inch = 2,54 cm) and can be found at the bottom of the surf board usually alon the Stringers.

6´4″ × 18 ⅔” × 2 ⅜” means: 6 Feet and 4 inches long, 18 ⅔ inches wide und 2 ⅜ inches thick.

The shapes mainly vary in length, width and thickness and therefore the volume of the board. The general rule of thumb is the following: the bigger and heavier a person is, the bigger should be the board and beginners always surf thicker boards than intermediate and advanced surfers.

Surfboard length
The length is the measurement (in feet and inches) of the board from the tip of the nose to the end. A long board is more stable than a short one, since it has a bigger area of contact with the water and a better BUOYANCY, so it’s easier to get up and keep the balance.

A longer surfboard is usually recommended to beginners. A Longboard is rather for experienced surfers, who want to ride smaller and mid-high waves and surf maneuvers.

Surfboard width
The width is the measurement of the board from side to side. It affects your surfboard quite similar as the length; the wider the board the more stable it is, but the harder it is to maneuver.

A wide board is recommended to beginner surfers due to its stability. More experienced surfers also like to take wider boards for smaller waves, because they can get the most out of the waves because of the higher buoyancy. Smaller boards enable more experienced surfers to maneuver easily.  

Surfboard thickness
The thicker the board, the more buoyancy it has and the easier it is to paddle – therefore it’s easier to catch wave, especially when the waves are less powerful. The thickness is the volume of the board, meaning how thick or thin the board is. It decides how easily the board floats. The thicker the board, the better it floats (logic, right?) and if it floats easier, it is more stable but also less agile.

A thick board is therefore recommended for beginners or heavy surfers, who need more buoyancy. A thin board on the other hand is very agile, but not really stable and therefore recommended to more experienced surfers.

Rocker of a Surfboard
The rocker is the curvature of the board from the nose to the tail.

The curvature is usually stronger at the nose of the board and a little less at the tail. The more rocker a board has, the easier it turns, but the slower it gets, since the curve offers the wave resistance.

A board with a lot of Rocker is recommended for very strong waves and bumpy waves, since the curve of the boards absorbs the impacts of the waves. A flatter board (with less Rocker) is recommended for small, powerless waves. Maybe that is the best option for beginners.

Rails of a surfboard

The Rails are the edges of the carton. It is the part, which has the most contact with the wave and its form can vary from rounded to sharp rails.

Further differences of surfboards

Further differences within the types of surfboards are the shape of the tail, the number of stringers (the wooden longitudinal axis of the board), number, kind and set-up of the fins as well as the material and the design of the board.

How do you call the parts of a surfboard?

Every surfboard consists of the following:

1. Nose: the first 12 inches of the surfboard, starting at the top – it has an important impact on paddling and the ability to maneuver the surfboard;
2. Tail: the back part of the surfboard, meaning the last 12 inches from the tail – it has a relevant impact on the speed and the maneuverability of the surfboard;
3. Rails: the rounded edges or the sides of a surfboard
4. Stringer: a thin wooden strip which is installed in the vertical middle of the surfboard and increases its strength and lessens unwanted flexibility;
5. Deck: the flat surface of the surfboard, on which the surfer stands and the area which is waxed;
6. Bottom: the part of the surfboard which touches the water when surfing and rests on it;
7. Fins: the stabilizing devices, which are installed at the bottom at the surfboard and serve as rudder, to avoid lateral slipping and to support speed, direction and control. There are five kinds of fins: Single-Fins, Twin-Fins, Thruster, four fins, and five fins;
8. Leash Plug: a small insert which is embedded on the deck of the surfboard and which contains a small metal pin where the surf-leash can be fixed on;
9. Fin Plug: a small insert which is embedded in the bottom of the surfboard where the fins can be installed.

What are the different categories for surf boards?

In general, there are three categories: long and wide boards with a round nose and little rocker the so-called LONGBOARDS (MALIBUS), which are officially recognized as such from a length of 9 feet.

SHORTBOARDS with a tippy nose and different tail-variations can have a length from 6 to 8 feet, including hybrid models.

As a last group there are MINIMALIBUS (small Longboards) which can range from 7 to 9 feet.

The two special forms have to be named as well: FISH and GUN. A Fishboard is a shorter Shortboard and meant for small waves, the Gun is actually only for big waves, so nothing for beginner surfers.

Which board for which waves and especially for which surfer?

In surfing it’s all about fun and you will definitely have it, when riding a wave standing on a board. Of course, there are many factors in favor for the stylish, small boards, which you will always see in the surf movies. And it just looks so easy when the surf pros shred those waves. They look good, are cheaper to buy and easier to transport…

What’s wrong with a small surfboard?

It’s best to learn surfing by really practicing and training it, not when walking along the beach with a stylish board. We don’t want to offend anyone. Everyone has to make the final decision for themselves, assess themselves and then make a purchase decision. But the more time you spend on the board and next to the board, the more time you can actually practice. And the feeling of being “stoked” will be much bigger in the evening when you have not only been on the board for a moment.

What is important when buying a surfboard? What should I consider when purchasing a board?

There is a generally accepted saying that “length runs, width stabilizes and thickness saves power”, which is absolutely correct. A surfboard with a lot of surface in the underwater hull is easier to paddle onto the wave and accelerates the board faster. Speed is the key to catching a wave.

• There are two aspects to surfboard width: the wider a board is, the more stable it is against tipping as there is more surface area on the water. The disadvantage of width is that a surfboard loses more and more of its maneuverability with increasing width, unless the shape (outline) is adapted accordingly. The decisive factor here is of course not only the width of the board but also the rocker line in the front (nose) and rear (tail) areas of the board.
• The thickness of the board also influences the so-called static buoyancy, as this affects the volume. The conclusion from this is as follows:  Very thin boards are very difficult to get going, very thick boards are easier to accelerate, but lose maneuverability.

How do I maintain my surfboard?

The board should never lie unnecessarily in the sun. Apart from the wax melting like butter, the UV-radiation causes the colours to fade and the white foam core of laminated boards to yellow. The outer skin also becomes increasingly brittle due to constant exposure to the sun. So always keep it in the shade or in a board bag.

Is a board bag useful for my surfboard?

A board bag is always a good idea to protect your surfboard. Please always take care not to place your board bag in the blazing sun. Even a board bag gets so hot in the sun that the surf wax can melt and stick to the inside of the bag. If there is no shade:

Always lay boards on the beach (even in the board bag) with the underside facing the sun, but do not allow the waxed surface to touch the sand. Otherwise, you may chafe your wetsuit or, even worse, your skin (watch out for nipple rash) … very unpleasant!

How should I handle a boardbag for my surfboard?

A board bag should also always be kept free of sand, otherwise the grains of sand will scratch the board during transport. Dried salt crystals can also scratch the finish. A freshwater shower removes sand, salt and algae from the board and leash.

A board bag with metal zip fasteners should not be stored when damp. Corrosion can eat away the zip if stored for a long time – the bag will then neither open nor close.

What do I do if my surfboard is damaged?

If your surfboard is damaged because you touched ground or collided with another surfer, you should get out of the water immediately and allow the affected area to dry in the sun or another warm place before repairing. Every foam core absorbs a certain amount of water, and once it is in the board it is difficult to get it out again. Changes in colour, increased weight, delamination and reduced strength can be the consequences of water ingress. To be on the safe side, take a look at the board after every surf session, as it’s easy to overlook damage on the water.

Make sure that you don’t store your surfboards in sub-zero temperatures. Moisture that has penetrated the board will freeze and expand, which can damage the laminate.

Which surfboard is good for beginners?

With a beginner board, it is important that it is big enough. If you are lying on your board with the tips of your toes resting on the back of the board, you should not be able to reach the nose of the board with your arms outstretched. Choose a soft board to minimize the risk of injury.

Where can I buy a beginner surfboard?

There are many providers on the market, so this question is not so easy to answer. Compare prices, read reviews and ratings. You could also ask your local surf school for advice during your surfing holiday.

Do you rent surfboards and surf accessories?

Yes, in our surf school you will find everything you need for surfing: Surfboard, wetsuit, etc. We will be happy to equip you with a suitable surfboard and wetsuit. We have boards in a wide range of sizes, shapes and variants. Feel free to drop by our surf school. Here you will find everything you need to know about our surf equipment rental. You can also reserve equipment directly via our booking system.

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