We all want to catch the best wave, but unfortunately it’s not always that easy. Here are 8 things we can learn from a surf session in bad conditions:
1. you learn to have compassion … with addicts. If you can ‘t get your daily dose of waves, sit in the line up and cry because you can’t get a wave, then you know how addicts feel. Always looking for the next kick.
2. you learn to be patient. You have to wait your turn. With hundreds of people out there and a few waves per set, you have to wait. Sometimes too long. Which brings us to point 3:
3. you learn to fight. There are a lot of people on this earth. Hundreds of them. Everywhere. If you’re too patient, you’ll never get your turn. So get into position, paddle and take it!
4. you learn to be grateful. When you finally get a wave in this crowded line-up, you’ll never forget it. It lifts your spirits immeasurably. You experience a whole range of crazy emotions, including gratitude. You’re grateful that your grandparents had sex back then and that you got to surf this wave today. Crazy, right?
5. you learn to surf well under pressure. When it’s very crowded in the water, the pressure is high not to involuntarily run over the others or slash them with your fins. Because you don’t want to destroy families or be charged with murder. You just want to take a nice wave and have a good time. Besides, a lot of people are watching you and you want to give them something and show them that you deserve this wave.
6. you learn how to argue properly. Sooner or later, you’re bound to get into a fight with another surfer in a full line up. You need to know that addicts can get very uncomfortable while waiting for their next dose. If you are able to express your opinion calmly and firmly, a physical altercation is most likely to be avoided. If not, then you should learn how to defend yourself when attacked. Verbally and physically.
7. you learn how to make friends. Smile! Spending time in a full line up is much nicer when you are nice to each other. Remember, we’re all in the water for the same reason and that bonds us. Give a nod to the surfer who’s just taken a great wave or give your buddy a platonic slap as he paddles past you. Create a good atmosphere and the world will be a little better.
8) Nothing ventured, nothing gained. The water is usually full because the waves are good. So get in there! There’s no point in sitting in the car, watching and then treating yourself to an undeserved snack.
The beach in El Cotillo can also be very crowded, as you can see in the photo above.
Photo Credit: Kristina Schlaich
