Surfing doesn’t just teach you a lot about waves and how to read them – just as you can size up a person after a first date, it works pretty well with the different line-up types too. With a bit of humour and experience, you’ll have fun recognising others here – and maybe even yourself.
The daredevil
If you do it, do it right! As soon as this type comes paddling out, your chances of catching a good wave drop. This type paddles straight into the line-up and doesn’t hesitate to race past everyone else waiting and grab one wave after another. Of course, this type is also very much about performance, but as the saying goes: fortune favours the bold! For the daredevil everything goes just right, because with his paddling stamina and ambition he naturally gets the most waves. However, he’s of course not very popular in the line-up, as he lacks empathy for the other wave-hungry surfers . But we’re not here to make friends, we’re here to surf, right?
More on this topic: No Risk no Fun! – Chippa Wilson & co, surfing on the rocks!
The local
The local is the daredevil’s big brother. With his local bonus , the tourist surfers have to hold back. Not only does he know the surf spot like the back of his hand, it’s also an unwritten rule that locals have priority at the peak . It’s quite possible that the local takes priority even when he doesn’t always have the “right of way”. That doesn’t mean you won’t get a turn at all, but you have to earn your position at the peak. With one glance, the local knows at which tide, and in which swell and wave conditions the surf is best. Of course, that’s a good guide for you too when you want to go in the water.
The patient one
Sitting in the crowd and fighting for the first best wave? That’s not for the patient one at all. You’ll usually see him off to the side in the channel or even out the back, where the fewest surfers hang out. There he waits patiently and relaxeduntil the big set rolls in and washes away the surfers further in, so he can calmly paddle into a wave all to himself. This type of surfer is totally chilled and doesn’t get frustrated if he sits in the line-up for 20 minutes – and on top of that he’s a pleasant person to be around. He rarely clashes with another surfer, physically or verbally.
The unlucky oneThis unfortunate type is often so motivated that you can’t help feeling sorry for him. Whether he trips over his own leash on the way into the water or battles with the impact zone and never even makes it to the line-up:
The unlucky one doesn’t give up! He keeps trying this surfing thing and can live with a proper wipeout. Unfortunately, this also means he quickly gets in other surfers’ way and has to be careful not to make himself unpopular on top of his own frustration. But always remember: no pain, no gain! And even if you learn it the hard way, it’s worth not giving up!
The chatterbox
“Hey, how’s it going?” “So, good today?” The chatterbox likes to go surfing mainly to have a little coffee klatsch with other sociable surfers in the line-up. You’ll most often find this type in the channel or out the back, where few waves break. He only interrupts his gossip when a wave happens to take him along. This type is a pleasant companion who, with a bit of luck, even picks up insider tips from the locals. However, his surf session is far from successful – after all, nothing comes from nothing.
The wave-glutton
The wave-glutton doesn’t think much of only surfing the nice waves. He lives by the motto: “I’ll take anything that isn’t up a tree by the count of three!” So he usually stays a bit further on the inside and hopes for a smaller wave that the other surfers don’t think is good enough. For him it’s quantity over quality , so of course he gets more waves. But the wave-glutton doesn’t live without danger, as he can easily get in the way of another Surfer who’s just coming down the wave from further back. Besides, he’s trapped in the lion’s den – the impact zone – when the big set rolls in. But who cares, NO RISK NO FUN! It just means one more good wipeout!