Reading waves while surfing: how beginners can spot the right wave

What does reading waves mean in surfing?

Reading waves means judging early where a wave will break, which way it will peel and whether you are in the right position to surf it safely.

This is particularly important when moving from whitewater to your first unbroken waves.

Your surfing does not begin at the take-off, but several seconds before:

If waves keep passing underneath your board, your paddling technique is not necessarily the reason. You might simply be waiting in the wrong place.

1. Observe
2. Assess
3. Position
4. Decide
5. Paddle
6. Take off

That looked just like the last five.

This is where an important step in surfing begins: you are no longer just learning how to ride a wave, but which wave you want to catch — and where you need to be to catch it.

At first, the ocean often seems chaotic. With a little practice, though, you begin to recognise patterns.

Five questions help: Where will the wave break? Where will it stay open? Which way will it peel? Am I in the right position? And should I take this wave at all?

1. Find the peak: where does the wave start breaking?

Watch a wave as it travels towards the beach.

Usually, the entire wave does not break at once. One section builds up more, becomes steeper and starts breaking first.

This section is called the peak.

It is crucial when choosing a wave because it shows you where the breaking part begins.

Notice which section builds first and how the wave’s shape changes.

The highest point is not automatically the best place to start. What matters is where the wave is likely to break and whether you can paddle into it there in a controlled way.

Peak & open face

Schematic view. The peak starts to break; the open face lies beside it.

2. Look for the open face — the shoulder

Once you have spotted the peak, look along the wave from there.

The key question is: on which side does the wave stay open?

This unbroken section next to the breaking part is often called the shoulder.

A wave can stay open to the left, to the right or in both directions.

If a large section breaks almost simultaneously, it is called a closeout. This leaves very little face to surf sideways along.

That is why looking only at wave size is not enough.

Watch the shape of the whole wave and how it changes as it approaches the beach.

You can learn more in our article about a wave’s energy zones.

3. Left or right? How to spot the direction

Found the peak? Now look along the wave from that point.

The side where an open face remains shows you which direction you can surf.

Right-hand wave

From the peak, the surfer rides to the right — from their perspective facing the beach.

Left-hand wave

From the peak, the surfer rides to the left — from their perspective facing the beach.

When you watch a wave from the beach, this can seem confusing at first. You are facing the surfer, so the directions appear reversed.

Start by focusing on the wave itself: where is the peak, and on which side does the face stay open?

For your first unbroken waves, it helps to choose waves whose direction is clear early on and which do not close out too quickly.

4. Check your position before paddling harder

A promising wave approaches. You turn your board and paddle hard — but it still passes underneath you.

Your first thought may be: I need to paddle harder.

Perhaps. But check your position first.

• Too far outside: the wave may not yet be steep enough to pick up your board.
• Too far inside: the wave may break before you can take off in control.
• Too far out on the shoulder: the wave may not give you enough push for the take-off.

The right starting position is where the wave develops enough push while still allowing you to paddle in and stand up in a controlled way.

After missing a wave, ask yourself:

Then look at where it actually broke. Even a missed wave becomes useful information for the next one.

Too far outside

The wave may not yet be steep enough to pick up your board.

Too far inside

The wave may break before you can take off in control.

Too far out on the shoulder

The wave may not give you enough push for the take-off.

Three possible positioning problems. The right position depends on the wave, your board and your ability; this is not a map of a specific spot.

Use landmarks on shore

In the water, you can drift sideways without noticing.

Choose a clearly visible landmark on shore, such as a distinctive rock or building.

Check regularly whether you are still sitting where you intended.

Your exercise: predict five waves

From the beach, pick five individual waves.

Decide as early as possible:

• Peak: where will the wave break first?
• Shoulder: where will the face stay open?
• Direction: will it peel left, peel right or close out?

Then watch what actually happens.

Did you judge the peak correctly? Did the wave stay open longer than expected? Or did it close out sooner?

This comparison is exactly what trains your wave reading:

Also watch where other surfers sit and how they paddle into the line-up. This can give you clues about the spot.

Their position is not, however, proof that an area is suitable for beginners or safe.

Frequently asked questions about reading waves

Learning to read waves — step by step

You do not learn to read waves simply by taking off as often as possible.

You learn by watching, trying and understanding why a wave worked — or did not.

Start by recognising the peak and the open face. Then watch the direction, adjust your position and make a conscious choice about which wave to take.

If you would like structured guidance for your first unbroken waves, find out more about our surf lessons for beginners on Fuerteventura.

Sometimes your next really good wave begins simply by looking carefully a few seconds earlier.

Sources & further reading

• NOAA: waves and coastal effects

Explore surfing knowledge →
Look up surfing terms →

Publisher: FreshSurf Cotillo S.L.
El Cotillo, Fuerteventura

Questions or feedback about this article: office@freshsurf.de