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h3{font-size:20px!important}#et-boc .fs-abc-entry p{font-size:16px!important}}<!-- [et_pb_line_break_holder] --><\/style>\n<p>[\/et_pb_code][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki fs-wiki-hero&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-hero-media-row&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/arbeiten-und-surfen-kueste.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;Atlantic surf along the mountainous coast of Cofete, Fuerteventura.&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-hero-photo skip-lazy&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-hero-card-row&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Surfing knowledge \/ Waves &#038; swell&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-eyebrow&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/\">Surfing knowledge<\/a> \/ Waves &amp; swell[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;How do waves form and why do they break? Wave formation explained simply&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h1><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"How_do_waves_form_and_why_do_they_break_Wave_formation_explained_simply\"><\/span>How do waves form and why do they break? Wave formation explained simply<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h1>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;FreshSurf Surfing Knowledge \u00b7 8-minute read&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-meta&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]FreshSurf Surfing Knowledge \u00b7 8-minute read[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;You are sitting on your surfboard in the line-up, watching the horizon. At first, the sea &#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-hero-intro&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>You are sitting on your surfboard in the line-up, watching the horizon. At first, the sea is calm; then several waves appear. They roll towards you, grow steeper and finally break over a sandbank.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Native WordPress search&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<form class=\"fs-wiki-search\" role=\"search\" method=\"get\" action=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/\"><label class=\"fs-wiki-sr-only\" for=\"fs-search-waves-en\">Search FreshSurf<\/label><input id=\"fs-search-waves-en\" name=\"s\" type=\"search\" placeholder=\"Search FreshSurf \u2026\"><button type=\"submit\" aria-label=\"Start search\">\u2192<\/button><\/form>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki fs-wiki-topics&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Surfwissen topics&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<nav class=\"fs-wiki-topic-links\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/#waves\" aria-current=\"page\">Waves &amp; swell<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/#wind-tides\">Wind &amp; tides<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/#safety\">Safety<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/#reading\">Reading waves<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/#surf-abc\">Surfing ABC<\/a><\/nav>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki fs-wiki-body fs-waves-body&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-toc-row&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Contents and back link&#8221; module_class=&#8221;et_smooth_scroll_disabled&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<details class=\"fs-wiki-toc et_smooth_scroll_disabled\">\n<summary>In this article<\/summary>\n<nav aria-label=\"In this article\">\n<ol>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-1\">How do waves form?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-2\">Wind waves and swell: what is the difference?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-3\">How does a wave travel across the ocean?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-4\">Wave height, wavelength and period explained simply<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-5\">Why do waves arrive in sets?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-6\">Why do waves break at the coast?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-7\">Why do some waves break gently and others steeply?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-8\">What affects wave quality at a surf spot?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-9\">Which wave types should surfers know?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-10\">How does understanding waves help your surfing?<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-11\">Frequently asked questions about wave formation<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"#sw-4-abschnitt-12\">Understand waves and improve your surfing<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/nav>\n<\/details>\n<p class=\"fs-wiki-toc-back\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/\">\u2190 Back to surf knowledge<\/a><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Breadcrumb&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<nav class=\"fs-wiki-breadcrumb-copy\" aria-label=\"Breadcrumb\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/\">Home<\/a> \/ <a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/\">FreshSurf surf knowledge<\/a> \/ Wave formation<\/nav>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-article-summary&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;At a glance&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-article-summary-title&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>At a glance<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;At a glance topic&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-article-summary-tile&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Wind<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;At a glance topic&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-article-summary-tile&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Swell<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;At a glance topic&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-article-summary-tile&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Energy<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;At a glance topic&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-article-summary-tile&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Breaking waves<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;But where do these waves actually come from? And why are some perfect for surfing, while o&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>But where do these waves actually come from? And why are some perfect for surfing, while others are disorganised and barely rideable?<\/p>\n<p>The answer often begins hundreds or even thousands of kilometres away \u2014 where wind blows across the sea\u2019s surface.<\/p>\n<p>Here you will learn how waves form, what swell means and why waves break at the coast. We also show you how to use this knowledge when surfing.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;How do waves form? Most of the waves we use for surfing are generated by wind. When wind b&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-1\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"How_do_waves_form\"><\/span><strong>How do waves form?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>Most of the waves we use for surfing are generated by wind.<\/p>\n<p>When wind blows across the sea\u2019s surface, it transfers energy to the water. Small ripples form first. If the wind keeps blowing, they can develop into larger waves.<\/p>\n<p>Their size depends mainly on three factors:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Wind speed: the stronger the wind, the more energy it can transfer to the water.<\/li>\n<li>Wind duration: the longer the wind blows, the more time the waves have to build.<\/li>\n<li>Fetch: the longer the stretch of water over which the wind acts, the larger the waves can become.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>A powerful storm over a large area of ocean can therefore generate much higher waves than a brief gust over a small lake.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_3,1_3,1_3&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Wind speed&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Wind speed<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-wind-speed-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of wind speed as a factor in wave formation.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of wind speed as a factor in wave formation.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of wind speed as a factor in wave formation.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;How fast the wind blows across the water.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>How fast the wind blows across the water.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Wind duration&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Wind duration<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-lehrgrafik-d59ba548032f.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of wind duration as a factor in wave formation.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of wind duration as a factor in wave formation.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of wind duration as a factor in wave formation.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;How long the wind acts on the water\u2019s surface.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>How long the wind acts on the water\u2019s surface.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Fetch&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Fetch<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-fetch-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of fetch: the stretch of water over which wind acts.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of fetch: the stretch of water over which wind acts.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of fetch: the stretch of water over which wind acts.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The open stretch of water over which the wind blows in a similar direction. Schematic fact&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The open stretch of water over which the wind blows in a similar direction. Schematic factors, not a calculation of surf height. Scientific background: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.noaa.gov\/jetstream\/ocean\/waves\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NOAA: Waves<\/a><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Wind waves and swell: what is the difference?&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-2\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Wind_waves_and_swell_what_is_the_difference\"><\/span><strong>Wind waves and swell: what is the difference?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;While wind is acting directly on the waves, we call them wind waves. They are often choppy&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>While wind is acting directly on the waves, we call them wind waves. They are often choppy because waves of different heights and directions overlap.<\/p>\n<p>Once the waves leave their generating area, they continue spreading as swell.<\/p>\n<p>As they travel, the waves increasingly sort themselves by speed. Long-period swell in particular can cover great distances across the ocean.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Important: swell does not automatically grow as it travels. It also loses energy as it spr&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-note&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Important: swell does not automatically grow as it travels. It also loses energy as it spreads.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Nevertheless, powerful waves can reach a windless beach if a storm far out at sea has gene&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Nevertheless, powerful waves can reach a windless beach if a storm far out at sea has generated swell travelling towards it.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Wind waves&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Wind waves<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Short, often disorganised waves directly influenced by the local wind.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Short, often disorganised waves directly influenced by the local wind.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Wind waves&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Wind waves<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-wind-sea-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Schematic comparison: locally generated wind waves.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Schematic comparison: locally generated wind waves.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Schematic comparison: locally generated wind waves.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Short, often disorganised waves directly influenced by the local wind.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Short, often disorganised waves directly influenced by the local wind.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Swell&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Swell<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Waves that have left their generating area and often travel across the ocean in a more org&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Waves that have left their generating area and often travel across the ocean in a more organised pattern.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Swell&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Swell<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-swell-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Schematic comparison: swell travelling away from its generating area.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Schematic comparison: swell travelling away from its generating area.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Schematic comparison: swell travelling away from its generating area.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Waves that have left their generating area and often travel across the ocean in a more org&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Waves that have left their generating area and often travel across the ocean in a more organised pattern.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/Swell-Wellenentstehung.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;Parallel wave lines and a sandy beach seen from above.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Parallel wave lines and a sandy beach seen from above.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Parallel wave lines and a sandy beach seen from above.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;How does a wave travel across the ocean? A wave mainly transports energy, rather than simp&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-3\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"How_does_a_wave_travel_across_the_ocean\"><\/span><strong>How does a wave travel across the ocean?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>A wave mainly transports energy, rather than simply moving a large mass of water across the entire ocean.<\/p>\n<p>Imagine a cork floating on the water. As a wave passes, it moves up and down and slightly backwards and forwards.<\/p>\n<p>Water particles beneath a wave move in a similar way. In deep water, they follow approximately circular paths, known as orbital motion.<\/p>\n<p>These movements weaken with increasing depth.<\/p>\n<p>There is also some net water transport, for example through what is known as Stokes drift. For your surf theory, however, this distinction is a useful starting point:<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The wave\u2019s energy travels great distances. The water itself moves mainly locally.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The wave\u2019s energy travels great distances. The water itself moves mainly locally.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Orbital motion&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Orbital motion<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-orbital-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of idealised orbital water-particle paths beneath a wave.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of idealised orbital water-particle paths beneath a wave.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of idealised orbital water-particle paths beneath a wave.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The circles show idealised local paths. Real particle paths may also include a small drift&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The circles show idealised local paths. Real particle paths may also include a small drift. Our own schematic illustration.<\/p>\n<p>Scientific background: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.noaa.gov\/jetstream\/ocean\/waves\/jetstream-max-anatomy-of-wave\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NOAA: Anatomy of a Wave<\/a><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Original text 29&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Wave height, wavelength and period explained simply When reading a surf forecast, you will&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-4\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Wave_height_wavelength_and_period_explained_simply\"><\/span><strong>Wave height, wavelength and period explained simply<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>When reading a surf forecast, you will encounter three important measurements.<\/p>\n<p>Simplified illustration: wavelength and wave height measure different distances.<\/p>\n<p>Wave height is the vertical distance between a trough and a crest. Surf forecasts often report significant wave height: the average height of the highest third of the waves. This is not automatically the height of the waves breaking at the beach.<\/p>\n<p>Wavelength describes the horizontal distance between two successive crests. In deep water, longer waves travel faster than shorter waves.<\/p>\n<p>Wave period tells you how many seconds pass between two crests at a fixed point.<\/p>\n<p>A period of 14 seconds, for example, means that two successive crests pass 14 seconds apart.<\/p>\n<p>Period is particularly interesting for surfers: long-period swell can produce powerful waves at the coast even when its height offshore initially seems unremarkable.<\/p>\n<p>The actual size of the waves at a surf spot also depends on swell direction, water depth and the seabed.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-measurements-desktop-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of wave height, wavelength and period at a fixed point; desktop version.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of wave height, wavelength and period at a fixed point; desktop version.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|off|off&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram distinguishing wave height and wavelength, desktop version.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-measurements-mobile-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of wave height, wavelength and period at a fixed point; mobile version.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of wave height, wavelength and period at a fixed point; mobile version.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;off|on|on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram distinguishing wave height and wavelength, mobile version.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Why do waves arrive in sets? You may recognise this: several larger waves arrive close tog&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-5\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Why_do_waves_arrive_in_sets\"><\/span><strong>Why do waves arrive in sets?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>You may recognise this: several larger waves arrive close together, followed by a quieter spell.<\/p>\n<p>We call these groups of waves sets.<\/p>\n<p>They form partly because waves with slightly different frequencies overlap, temporarily reinforcing or weakening one another.<\/p>\n<p>The quieter phase between two sets is called a lull.<\/p>\n<p>The distinction matters:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Wave period: the time between two successive crests.<\/li>\n<li>Lull between sets: a quieter interval between two groups of waves.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>There is no fixed number of waves in a set.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Our tip: watch the sea for a few minutes before entering the water. Pay particular attenti&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Our tip: watch the sea for a few minutes before entering the water. Pay particular attention to the size of the largest waves in a set.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Just because the water looks calm at the moment does not mean that conditions will stay ca&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Just because the water looks calm at the moment does not mean that conditions will stay calm.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-period-sets-desktop-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram explaining wave period, desktop version.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram explaining wave period, desktop version.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;on|off|off&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram explaining wave period, desktop version.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-period-sets-mobile-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram explaining wave period, mobile version.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram explaining wave period, mobile version.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; disabled_on=&#8221;off|on|on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram explaining wave period, mobile version.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The period given in a forecast is a statistical measure. Peak period and mean period diffe&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The period given in a forecast is a statistical measure. Peak period and mean period differ; check the provider\u2019s definition. This drawing explains the timing principle using idealised individual waves. Background: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ndbc.noaa.gov\/faq\/wavecalc.shtml\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NOAA\/NDBC: wave periods<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/verschiedene-Wellentypen.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;Long, parallel wave lines approaching the coast.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Long, parallel wave lines approaching the coast.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Long, parallel wave lines approaching the coast.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Why do waves break at the coast? In the open ocean, waves can travel great distances witho&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-6\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Why_do_waves_break_at_the_coast\"><\/span><strong>Why do waves break at the coast?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>In the open ocean, waves can travel great distances without breaking.<\/p>\n<p>As they reach shallower water, the seabed starts to influence their motion.<\/p>\n<p>This is what happens:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The wave slows down as water depth decreases.<\/li>\n<li>Its wavelength shortens and the wave often becomes steeper.<\/li>\n<li>The crest becomes unstable, tips forwards and breaks.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>This creates the breaking waves and whitewater you know from the beach.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_3,1_3,1_3&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;1 \u00b7 Shallower water&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>1 \u00b7 Shallower water<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-shoaling-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 1: shallower water.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 1: shallower water.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 1: shallower water.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The wave slows down as water depth decreases.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The wave slows down as water depth decreases.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;2 \u00b7 The wave steepens&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>2 \u00b7 The wave steepens<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-steepening-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 2: the wave becomes steeper.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 2: the wave becomes steeper.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 2: the wave becomes steeper.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Its wavelength shortens and the wave often becomes steeper.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Its wavelength shortens and the wave often becomes steeper.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;3 \u00b7 The wave breaks&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>3 \u00b7 The wave breaks<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-breaking-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 3: the crest tips forwards and breaks.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 3: the crest tips forwards and breaks.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Wave-breaking diagram, stage 3: the crest tips forwards and breaks.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The crest becomes unstable, tips forwards and breaks.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The crest becomes unstable, tips forwards and breaks.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Simplified side profiles explaining wave breaking. No fixed breaking distance or depth thr&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Simplified side profiles explaining wave breaking. No fixed breaking distance or depth threshold.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/surfkurs-fuer-intermediates-gruene-welle-980&#215;544.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;A surfer rides a wave on a yellow surfboard.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;A surfer rides a wave on a yellow surfboard.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;A surfer rides a wave on a yellow surfboard.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Why do some waves break gently and others steeply? The shape of the seabed is one importan&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-7\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Why_do_some_waves_break_gently_and_others_steeply\"><\/span><strong>Why do some waves break gently and others steeply?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>The shape of the seabed is one important factor.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;This is why the same swell can produce completely different waves at two neighbouring beac&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>This is why the same swell can produce completely different waves at two neighbouring beaches.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Spilling wave&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Spilling wave<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-lehrgrafik-09125e1d443c.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of a spilling wave with whitewater running down its face.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of a spilling wave with whitewater running down its face.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of a spilling wave with whitewater running down its face.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The wave breaks more gently and whitewater spills down its face.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The wave breaks more gently and whitewater spills down its face.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Plunging wave&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><strong>Plunging wave<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-lehrgrafik-6bdf1b3d6789.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of a plunging wave throwing its lip forwards.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of a plunging wave throwing its lip forwards.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of a plunging wave throwing its lip forwards.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;The wave steepens and throws its lip forwards.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>The wave steepens and throws its lip forwards.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;What affects wave quality at a surf spot? Swell alone does not determine whether you find &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-8\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"What_affects_wave_quality_at_a_surf_spot\"><\/span><strong>What affects wave quality at a surf spot?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>Swell alone does not determine whether you find good waves. Wind, tides and the seabed also play important roles.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/surf-lesson-fuerteventura-surfspot-north-shore-980&#215;544.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;A surfer crouches on the open face of a breaking wave.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;A surfer crouches on the open face of a breaking wave.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;A surfer crouches on the open face of a breaking wave.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Tides: low and high water Tides change the water level over sandbanks, rocks and reefs. At&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Tides_low_and_high_water\"><\/span><strong>Tides: low and high water<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>Tides change the water level over sandbanks, rocks and reefs.<\/p>\n<p>At low tide, waves at some spots may break earlier and more steeply. At high tide, the breaking point may shift.<\/p>\n<p>Whether a spot works better at low or high water varies from place to place.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Wind direction: onshore and offshore&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Wind_direction_onshore_and_offshore\"><\/span><strong>Wind direction: onshore and offshore<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/onshore-offshore-windcheck-am-strand-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;An orange windsock on a sandy beach in front of wind-affected surf.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;An orange windsock on a sandy beach in front of wind-affected surf.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;An orange windsock on a sandy beach in front of wind-affected surf.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Onshore wind blows from the sea towards the land. It can make the water\u2019s surface choppy a&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Onshore wind blows from the sea towards the land. It can make the water\u2019s surface choppy and reduce wave quality.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/onshore-offshore-geordnete-welle-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;An orange windsock on a sandy beach in front of a breaking wave.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;An orange windsock on a sandy beach in front of a breaking wave.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;An orange windsock on a sandy beach in front of a breaking wave.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Offshore wind blows from the land out to sea. At light to moderate strength, it can smooth&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Offshore wind blows from the land out to sea. At light to moderate strength, it can smooth the water\u2019s surface and help create cleaner waves.<\/p>\n<p>Sideshore wind blows largely parallel to the coast and can also affect wave shape.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Strong offshore wind is not automatically good, however: it can make paddling into waves h&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Strong offshore wind is not automatically good, however: it can make paddling into waves harder and create additional hazards.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Seabed: beachbreak, reefbreak and pointbreak&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Seabed_beachbreak_reefbreak_and_pointbreak\"><\/span><strong>Seabed: beachbreak, reefbreak and pointbreak<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_3,1_3,1_3&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Beachbreak&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Beachbreak<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-beachbreak-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;Several wave peaks break over pale sandbanks beside a sandy beach.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Several wave peaks break over pale sandbanks beside a sandy beach.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Several wave peaks break over pale sandbanks beside a sandy beach.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-beachbreak-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a beachbreak.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a beachbreak.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a beachbreak.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Waves break over sandbanks. As these can change, the breaking points also move. Beachbreak&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Waves break over sandbanks. As these can change, the breaking points also move. Beachbreaks can produce gentle waves, but also very powerful ones.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Reefbreak&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Reefbreak<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-reefbreak-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;A wave breaks over a dark submerged rock shelf.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;A wave breaks over a dark submerged rock shelf.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;A wave breaks over a dark submerged rock shelf.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-reefbreak-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a reefbreak.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a reefbreak.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a reefbreak.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Waves break over rock or coral reefs. Depending on the seabed, steep, hollow waves can for&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Waves break over rock or coral reefs. Depending on the seabed, steep, hollow waves can form. Shallow reefs increase the risk of injury.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_3&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Pointbreak&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Pointbreak<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-pointbreak-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;Waves wrap around a rocky headland and break along the bay.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Waves wrap around a rocky headland and break along the bay.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Waves wrap around a rocky headland and break along the bay.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-pointbreak-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a pointbreak.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a pointbreak.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Schematic illustration of a pointbreak.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Waves run along a headland or coastal formation. In suitable conditions, they can break co&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Waves run along a headland or coastal formation. In suitable conditions, they can break consistently over a longer distance.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Which wave types should surfers know?&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-9\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Which_wave_types_should_surfers_know\"><\/span><strong>Which wave types should surfers know?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Unbroken wave&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Unbroken_wave\"><\/span>Unbroken wave<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;A wave that has not yet broken and has a rideable face. This is where you learn to surf al&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>A wave that has not yet broken and has a rideable face. This is where you learn to surf along the wave.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-open-face-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of an unbroken wave with a rideable face.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of an unbroken wave with a rideable face.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of an unbroken wave with a rideable face.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;A wave that has not yet broken and has a rideable face.&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>A wave that has not yet broken and has a rideable face.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-gruene-welle-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;An unbroken green wave with a smooth, open face.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;An unbroken green wave with a smooth, open face.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;An unbroken green wave with a smooth, open face.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Whitewater wave&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Whitewater_wave\"><\/span>Whitewater wave<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;A wave that has already broken. Whitewater that is not too powerful is often suitable for &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>A wave that has already broken. Whitewater that is not too powerful is often suitable for practising take-offs.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-whitewater-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of a whitewater wave that has already broken.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of a whitewater wave that has already broken.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of a whitewater wave that has already broken.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-weisswasser-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;Surfers practise on a small whitewater wave that has already broken.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Surfers practise on a small whitewater wave that has already broken.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Surfers practise on a small whitewater wave that has already broken.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Barrel or tube&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Barrel_or_tube\"><\/span>Barrel or tube<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;A hollow wave whose lip folds over the face. Waves like these require a great deal of expe&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>A hollow wave whose lip folds over the face. Waves like these require a great deal of experience.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-barrel-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of a barrel or tube.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of a barrel or tube.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of a barrel or tube.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-barrel-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;A hollow breaking wave forms an open wave tunnel.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;A hollow breaking wave forms an open wave tunnel.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;A hollow breaking wave forms an open wave tunnel.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Closeout&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Closeout\"><\/span>Closeout<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;A wave that breaks across a large section almost simultaneously, leaving very little face &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>A wave that breaks across a large section almost simultaneously, leaving very little face to surf along.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-closeout-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of a closeout wave.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of a closeout wave.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of a closeout wave.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-closeout-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;A wave breaks across its whole width almost simultaneously.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;A wave breaks across its whole width almost simultaneously.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;A wave breaks across its whole width almost simultaneously.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Shorebreak&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Shorebreak\"><\/span>Shorebreak<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;A wave that breaks directly on the beach or in very shallow water. Powerful shorebreak can&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>A wave that breaks directly on the beach or in very shallow water. Powerful shorebreak can be particularly dangerous.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/freshsurf-wave-formation-shorebreak-en.png&#8221; alt=&#8221;Diagram of shorebreak.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;Diagram of shorebreak.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;Diagram of shorebreak.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/wellenentstehung-shorebreak-980&#215;653.webp&#8221; alt=&#8221;A wave breaks onto the sand immediately at the water\u2019s edge.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;A wave breaks onto the sand immediately at the water\u2019s edge.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;A wave breaks onto the sand immediately at the water\u2019s edge.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|8px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;AI-generated&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-caption&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>AI-generated<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row fs-wiki-cards &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;How does understanding waves help your surfing? You do not need to master physics formulas&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-10\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"How_does_understanding_waves_help_your_surfing\"><\/span><strong>How does understanding waves help your surfing?<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>You do not need to master physics formulas to assess waves better.<\/p>\n<p>Five questions can help you judge your next surf forecast and the conditions at the beach.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/Wellenentstehung-Beachbreak-oder-Reefbreak.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;A person with a surfboard watches a breaking wave.&#8221; title_text=&#8221;A person with a surfboard watches a breaking wave.&#8221; align=&#8221;center&#8221; force_fullwidth=&#8221;on&#8221; admin_label=&#8221;A person with a surfboard watches a breaking wave.&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-image fs-article-teaching-image&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|12px|0px&#8221; border_radii=&#8221;on|0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Your wave check before a session Which direction is the swell coming from? Will it reach m&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-check&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_3_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_3_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Your_wave_check_before_a_session\"><\/span>Your wave check before a session<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><label><input type=\"checkbox\">Which direction is the swell coming from? Will it reach my surf spot?<\/label><\/li>\n<li><label><input type=\"checkbox\">How high is the swell, and what is its period?<\/label><\/li>\n<li><label><input type=\"checkbox\">How strong is the wind, and which direction is it blowing from?<\/label><\/li>\n<li><label><input type=\"checkbox\">At what water level does the spot work safely?<\/label><\/li>\n<li><label><input type=\"checkbox\">What do the waves, sets and currents actually look like on the spot?<\/label><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>A surf forecast is a prediction, not a guarantee. Observe the actual conditions before entering the water.<\/p>\n<p>Pay particular attention to larger sets, shallow areas and currents.<\/p>\n<p>Areas where fewer waves break are not automatically safe either. Strong rip currents may be present there.<\/p>\n<p>Find out more in our article about <a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/currents-why-we-should-not-underestimate-them\/\">currents when surfing<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Frequently asked questions about wave formation&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-11\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Frequently_asked_questions_about_wave_formation\"><\/span><strong>Frequently asked questions about wave formation<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_accordion admin_label=&#8221;FAQ \u2013 Fragen und Antworten bearbeiten&#8221; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-faq fs-native-sw&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; toggle_level=&#8221;h3&#8243; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; custom_css_toggle_title=&#8221;font-size:16px!important;&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_accordion_item title=&#8221;Are all ocean waves generated by wind?&#8221; open=&#8221;on&#8221; open_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#f0f6f4&#8243; closed_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; icon_color=&#8221;#24616b&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; title_text_color=&#8221;#173f47&#8243; title_level=&#8221;h3&#8243; title_font=&#8221;Rubik|500|||||||&#8221; title_font_size=&#8221;20px&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; border_radii=&#8221;on|10px|10px|10px|10px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>No. Besides wind-generated waves, there are, for example, tsunamis, which can result from sudden displacements of large masses of water. The usual waves we surf, however, are generated mainly by wind.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=&#8221;Why are waves sometimes large when there is hardly any wind at the beach?&#8221; open_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#f0f6f4&#8243; closed_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; icon_color=&#8221;#24616b&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; title_text_color=&#8221;#173f47&#8243; title_level=&#8221;h3&#8243; title_font=&#8221;Rubik|500|||||||&#8221; title_font_size=&#8221;20px&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; border_radii=&#8221;on|10px|10px|10px|10px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221; open=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Because the swell may have formed far away. It carries the energy of a storm over great distances to the coast. Large waves can therefore arrive even on windless days.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=&#8221;Do waves grow the longer they travel across the ocean?&#8221; open_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#f0f6f4&#8243; closed_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; icon_color=&#8221;#24616b&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; title_text_color=&#8221;#173f47&#8243; title_level=&#8221;h3&#8243; title_font=&#8221;Rubik|500|||||||&#8221; title_font_size=&#8221;20px&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; border_radii=&#8221;on|10px|10px|10px|10px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221; open=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>No. Swell does not gain energy simply by travelling farther. In shallower water, waves can steepen and become higher.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=&#8221;What is the difference between swell and a breaking wave?&#8221; open_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#f0f6f4&#8243; closed_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; icon_color=&#8221;#24616b&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; title_text_color=&#8221;#173f47&#8243; title_level=&#8221;h3&#8243; title_font=&#8221;Rubik|500|||||||&#8221; title_font_size=&#8221;20px&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; border_radii=&#8221;on|10px|10px|10px|10px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221; open=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Swell refers to waves travelling across the sea after leaving their generating area. When they reach shallower water, they can become unstable and break. This creates the faces and whitewater we use for surfing.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_accordion_item][et_pb_accordion_item title=&#8221;Why are some waves better for surfing than others?&#8221; open_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#f0f6f4&#8243; closed_toggle_background_color=&#8221;#ffffff&#8221; icon_color=&#8221;#24616b&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; title_text_color=&#8221;#173f47&#8243; title_level=&#8221;h3&#8243; title_font=&#8221;Rubik|500|||||||&#8221; title_font_size=&#8221;20px&#8221; body_text_color=&#8221;#000000&#8243; border_radii=&#8221;on|10px|10px|10px|10px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221; open=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Because swell direction, wave period, wind, tides and seabed interact. Cleanly breaking waves with an open face are generally easier to surf than disorganised waves or closeouts.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_accordion_item][\/et_pb_accordion][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Understand waves and improve your surfing Every good surf wave involves a combination of w&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"sw-4-abschnitt-12\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Understand_waves_and_improve_your_surfing\"><\/span><strong>Understand waves and improve your surfing<\/strong><span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>Every good surf wave involves a combination of wind, energy, water depth and seabed.<\/p>\n<p>Wind generates the waves, swell transports their energy across the ocean, and the shape of the coast helps determine how they eventually break.<\/p>\n<p>Understanding these connections helps you read surf forecasts, observe conditions more carefully and choose waves suited to your surfing level.<\/p>\n<p>Would you like to put your surf theory into practice in the water? In our <a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surf-lessons-fuerteventura\/\">surf lessons on Fuerteventura<\/a>, we combine theoretical knowledge with practical exercises in the sea.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki-content-row &#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Sources &#038; further reading NOAA: Waves and swell Back to surfing knowledge \u2192 Look up surfin&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; header_2_font=&#8221;Open Sans|700|||||||&#8221; header_2_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Sources_further_reading\"><\/span>Sources &amp; further reading<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.noaa.gov\/jetstream\/ocean\/waves\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NOAA: Waves and swell<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surfing-knowledge\/\">Back to surfing knowledge \u2192<\/a><br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/abc-of-surfing\/\">Look up surfing terms \u2192<\/a>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;FreshSurf Surfing Knowledge Publisher: FreshSurf Cotillo S.L. El Cotillo, Fuerteventura Qu&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; text_font=&#8221;Rubik|300|||||||&#8221; text_text_color=&#8221;#111111&#8243; link_text_color=&#8221;#21616e&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<strong>FreshSurf Surfing Knowledge<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Publisher: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/impressum\/\">FreshSurf Cotillo S.L.<\/a><br \/>El Cotillo, Fuerteventura<\/p>\n<p>Questions or feedback about this article: <a href=\"mailto:office@freshsurf.de\">office@freshsurf.de<\/a><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; module_class=&#8221;fs-wiki fs-wiki-related&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.9&#8243; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;1180px&#8221; 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