{"id":290766,"date":"2013-01-15T01:59:03","date_gmt":"2013-01-15T00:59:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/localhost\/freshsurf\/?page_id=19592"},"modified":"2026-01-28T00:56:05","modified_gmt":"2026-01-27T23:56:05","slug":"history-of-surfing","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/history-of-surfing\/","title":{"rendered":"The history of surfing \u2013 A gift from Polynesia to the world"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<\/p>\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_83 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-grey ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-1'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/history-of-surfing\/#History_of_surfing\" >History of surfing<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-2' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/history-of-surfing\/#The_History_of_Surfing_A_Gift_from_Polynesia_to_the_World\" >The History of Surfing: A Gift from Polynesia to the World<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/history-of-surfing\/#The_History_of_Surfing_in_Hawaii\" >The History of Surfing in Hawaii<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/history-of-surfing\/#The_history_of_surfing_the_beginning_of_commercialization\" >The history of surfing: the beginning of commercialization<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/history-of-surfing\/#The_history_of_surfing_the_era_of_modern_surfing\" >The history of surfing: the era of modern surfing<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/history-of-surfing\/#Summary_of_the_history_of_surfing\" >Summary of the history of surfing<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h1><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"History_of_surfing\"><\/span>History of surfing<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h1>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-94749\" src=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/05\/hawaii-1.jpg\" alt=\"hawaii\" width=\"1080\" height=\"516\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/05\/hawaii-1.jpg 1080w, https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/05\/hawaii-1-300x143.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/05\/hawaii-1-768x367.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_testimonial _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; author_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; author_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; position_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; position_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; company_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; company_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; body_quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_image_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_image_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p><em>\u201cSometimes I see 20 to 30 men who lay themselves flat on a piece of wood, use their arms to control the direction they are heading and start paddling for a wave. Once on the peak of the wave, they start speeding down towards the beach (\u2026)\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_testimonial][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.27.4&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.2&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>That\u2019s how Lieutenant James King, the commander of the discovery, once described the way the Hawaiians were\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/about-surfing\/\">surfing<\/a>\u00a0in 1779.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/mustervorlage.png\" alt=\"waves\" title=\"\"><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_History_of_Surfing_A_Gift_from_Polynesia_to_the_World\"><\/span>The History of Surfing: A Gift from Polynesia to the World<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>At this time, surfing was an essential part of the Hawaiian culture. The chiefs demonstrated their surfing skills and the rank of each individual was defined by the skills and knowledge shown on the ocean. Anthropologists cannot exactly date the <strong>beginning of surfing in the Polynesian culture<\/strong>; however it can be assumed that around 2000 B.C. people began to move from Asia to the Eastern Pacific Ocean. In the 4th century B.C. the first Polynesians arrived in Hawaii . Those who made the arduous journey from Tahiti to Hawaii were characterized by an extraordinary understanding and <strong>boundless love of the sea<\/strong>. They brought their customs and traditions with them to Hawaii, including surfing.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;geschichte-des-surfens&#8221; title_text=&#8221;geschichte-des-surfens&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.2&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.2&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_History_of_Surfing_in_Hawaii\"><\/span>The History of Surfing in Hawaii<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>When Captain Cook arrived in Hawaii with the Discovery, <strong>surfing was already firmly anchored in Hawaii&#8217;s history<\/strong>. Places were dedicated to legendary surfing events and special rituals were developed to christen new boards, promote the swell and encourage the men and women who dared to take on the big waves. Before first contact with Cook, Hawaii was strictly divided into classes, which also had an effect on the water: there were reef and beach breaks where only the skinplings were allowed to surf and those for the normal citizens. Many of Hawaii&#8217;s leaders were revered for their surfing skills.<\/p>\n<p>There were <strong>three types of Hawaiian surfboards<\/strong>: The Olo, up to 24ft high and thicker in the middle than at the ends, the Kiko&#8217;o, 18ft long and slightly thinner, a fast board but very difficult to handle, and the Alaia, reserved for chiefs only, 8ft. long, thin and wide at the nose and narrowing towards the back.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-surfboard.jpg\" width=\"1080\" height=\"600\" alt=\"geschichte-des-surfens-surfboard\" class=\"wp-image-244562 alignnone size-full\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-surfboard.jpg 1080w, https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-surfboard-980x544.jpg 980w, https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-surfboard-480x267.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) and (max-width: 980px) 980px, (min-width: 981px) 1080px, 100vw\" \/><\/p>\n<p>In 1778, when Cook&#8217;s ships reached the island, surfing was highly developed, but what Cook described in 1779 was the zenith for the time being, because in the shadow of European exploration, surfing experienced a major decline over the next 150 years. European contact had a negative impact on Hawaii because after Cook published his findings, the island chain became a destination for many adventurers, captains and missionaries. These brought new technologies and religions and thus gradually overrode Hawaiian culture and the importance of surfing. The natives were educated to monotheism and hard daily work. The only thing that died faster than the culture were the Hawaiians themselves: Plagues, alcohol and other drugs took their toll and so the population dwindled from around 600,000 in 1779 to just 40,000 in 1896. But even this stroke of fate did not cause surfing to die out.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/mustervorlage.png\" alt=\"waves\" title=\"\"><\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_history_of_surfing_the_beginning_of_commercialization\"><\/span>The history of surfing: the beginning of commercialization<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>After the Hawaiian archipelago became the 51st state to join the USA in 1900, more and more people traveled to the islands. One of them was Jack London, who learned to surf from the journalist Alexander Ford Hume in 1907 and thus also met the most celebrated Waikiki beach boy at the time, George Freeth. All three had one thing in common: they loved the <strong>\u201csport of kings\u201d<\/strong>. In the same year, London wrote \u201c<em>A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki<\/em>\u201d and a year later they founded the \u201c<em>Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club<\/em>\u201d, the first club dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian surfing, offering rental boards and surf lessons from beach huts. By 1915, the club had 1,200 members.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-waikiki.jpg&#8221; alt=&#8221;geschichte-des-surfens waikiki&#8221; title_text=&#8221;geschichte-des-surfens waikiki&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.19.2&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>In the same year, the world first became aware of <strong>Duke Paoa Kahanamoku<\/strong>, who was not only a three-time world champion in the 100m freestyle, but was also <strong>one of Hawaii&#8217;s best surfers<\/strong> and traveled the world as a respected actor, using his fame to spread the word about surfing. In 1915, he had to go to Australia as part of a swimming demonstration, where he spontaneously shaped a board out of pine wood, which he demonstrated at Freshwater Beach in Manly to great acclaim, thus single-handedly laying the foundation for the \u201csurfing superpower Australia\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>In 1928, Tom Blake, the inventor of the fin, organized the first contest, the \u201c<em><strong>Pacific Coast Surf Riding Championships<\/strong><\/em>\u201d in Corona del Mar. Top surfers from all over the world competed annually until the Second World War put an end to the event in 1941. However, the surfing trend continued and attracted people like Woodbridge Parker, who was simply looking for freedom and peace and, together with the Hawaiian ladies&#8217; man Rabbit Kekai and John Kelly, a big wave pioneer, made a decisive impact on the Makaha spot. They were also the ones who <strong>developed ever faster and lighter boards<\/strong> in the 30s, 40s and 50s.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.25.2&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;||0px|||&#8221; z_index_tablet=&#8221;500&#8243; text_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; text_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; link_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; link_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ul_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; ol_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; quote_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_2_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_3_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_4_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_5_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_horizontal_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_vertical_length_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; header_6_text_shadow_blur_strength_tablet=&#8221;1px&#8221; box_shadow_horizontal_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_vertical_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; box_shadow_blur_tablet=&#8221;40px&#8221; box_shadow_spread_tablet=&#8221;0px&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_history_of_surfing_the_era_of_modern_surfing\"><\/span>The history of surfing: the era of modern surfing<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>In 1946, boards were <strong>no longer simply shaped from wood<\/strong>, but Bob Simmons produced a foam-filled board with balsa rails and a plywood deck. Shortly afterwards, Pete Peterson went one step further and developed a <strong>fiberglass board<\/strong> that weighed only 12 kg. Fiberglass had been developed during the Second World War. In 1958, Hobie Alter and Gordon Clark were the first to produce boards made entirely of foam and fibreglass, revolutionizing the market. But it wasn&#8217;t just the boards that became faster and lighter, research was also carried out into protection from the cold water and Jack O&#8217;Neill produced the <strong>first wetsuit<\/strong> in the early 1950s.<\/p>\n<p>In 1953, a photo appeared in newspapers around the world showing Woody Brown and two others surfing a gigantic wave in Makaha. At that time, <strong>surfing was booming<\/strong> in California and this picture prompted many people to travel to Hawaii.<\/p>\n<p>Two of them were Fred van Dyke and Peter Cole, who together with Edie Aikau and Buffalo Keaulana became the best big wave surfers of the era. During these years, surfing developed from a fringe sport to a mainstream sport.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-big-wave-surfen.jpg\" width=\"1080\" height=\"600\" alt=\"geschichte-des-surfens big wave surfen\" class=\"wp-image-244564 alignnone size-full\" title=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-big-wave-surfen.jpg 1080w, https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-big-wave-surfen-980x544.jpg 980w, https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/geschichte-des-surfens-big-wave-surfen-480x267.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) and (max-width: 980px) 980px, (min-width: 981px) 1080px, 100vw\" \/><\/p>\n<p>From this point onwards, Hollywood also loved the sport of kings and the market was literally flooded with surf films such as \u201cGidget\u201d and \u201cThe Endless Summer\u201d. This boom also gave rise to surf fashion, with everyone now wearing board shorts and listening to the songs of the Beach Boys. Everything to do with surfing was absolutely hyped. In 1966, Nat Young produced the first 9&#8217;4&#8221; board and ushered in the era of the <a class=\"wpil_keyword_link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surf-board\/#shortboard\"   title=\"shortboard\" data-wpil-keyword-link=\"linked\"  data-wpil-monitor-id=\"4027\">shortboard<\/a>, which made the sport boom even more. At this point it should be noted that a <a class=\"wpil_keyword_link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/surf-board\/#shortboard\"   title=\"shortboard\" data-wpil-keyword-link=\"linked\"  data-wpil-monitor-id=\"4565\">shortboard<\/a> is only called a shortboard up to a length of 6&#8217;11\u201d. Nat Young was just the first to start building smaller boards.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Where once there were only a dozen people surfing, there were now thousands. Surfboards were now made of plastic, mass produced and ever shorter, a far cry from their ancient Hawaiian roots. Now there are dozens of surf magazines, videos, movies and websites about surfing worldwide and a multi-million dollar market has developed that spans the globe.<\/p>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Summary_of_the_history_of_surfing\"><\/span>Summary of the history of surfing<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>Despite the commercialization, the greatest benefit of surfing is the fun and <strong>special connection with nature<\/strong> for millions of people around the world. Surfing is an element of traditional Hawaiian culture that has survived into modern times and brings with it many other aspects of Hawaiian life &#8211; <strong>surfing is truly a gift from Polynesia<\/strong> to the world.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>History of surfing \u201cSometimes I see 20 to 30 men who lay themselves flat on a piece of wood, use their arms to control the direction they are heading and start paddling for a wave. Once on the peak of the wave, they start speeding down towards the beach (\u2026)\u201dThat\u2019s how Lieutenant James King, the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":244554,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"<h4><\/h4>\n<table border=\"0\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td valign=\"top\" width=\"239px\"><img class=\"alignnone  wp-image-163\" title=\"surf1\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/surf11.png\" alt=\"\" \/><\/td>\n<td valign=\"top\"><strong>The beginning of surfing - Hawaiian culture<\/strong>\n\n\u201cSometimes I see 20 to 30 men who lay themselves flat on a piece of wood, use their arms to control the direction they are heading and start paddling for a wave. Once on the peak of the wave, they start speeding down towards the beach (\u2026)\u201d That\u2019s how Lieutenant James King, the commander of the discovery, once described the way the Hawaiians were surfing in 1779.\nAt this time, surfing was an essential part of the Hawaiian culture. The chiefs demonstrated their surfing skills and the rank of each individual was defined by the skills and knowledge shown on the ocean. Anthropologists cannot exactly date the beginning of surfing in the Polynesian culture; however it can be assumed that around 2000 B.C. people began to move from Asia to the Eastern Pacific Ocean. In the 4th century B.C. the first Polynesians arrived in Hawaii . The new inhabitants to the island not only brought in a new culture, but most of all the tradition of surfing!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td valign=\"top\"><img class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-190\" title=\"surf2\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/surf22.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"278\" height=\"228\" \/><\/td>\n<td valign=\"top\">When Captain Cook arrived in Hawaii, surfing had already become an<strong> essential part of island life<\/strong>. The people invented many rituals which, for example, were associated with christening surfboards or increasing the swell of the ocean. The community of Hawaii was strictly divided in two social classes which had an enormous impact on surfing. Only the chiefs were allowed to surf on the best beach and reef breaks. Everyone else had to surf on the remaining spots. At this time there were three different Hawaiian board types:\n1. The Olo, with a length of up to 24 ft., which was thicker in the middle of the board than at the rails\n2. The Kiko\u2019o, with a length of 18 ft., which was slightly thinner and therefore good for speed, but not for control\n3. The Alaia, which was used by the chiefs only. It measured 8 ft. and was quite thin and wider at the nose of the board.\nWhen Cook reached the island in 1778, surfing was at its peak. But with the European influx into the island, surfing experienced an enormous decline which lasted around 150 years. After Cook published his findings, the island became a destination for those who were looking for adventure . The Hawaiian culture suffered under the different influences that were brought to the island by the various communities and people, and so did the culture of surfing. The native people became more hard working and adopted monotheism. Their culture was not the only thing that died out quickly; so did the Hawaiians themselves. Many diseases, alcohol and other drug abuses made the population shrink to just 40.000 people in 1896 when it was 600.000 in 1779. Still \u2013 surfing survived and thank god it did!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td valign=\"top\"><img class=\"alignnone  wp-image-167\" title=\"surf3\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/surf31.png\" alt=\"\" \/>\n\n<img class=\"alignnone\" src=\"https:\/\/www.smh.com.au\/ffximage\/2004\/03\/04\/keith_paull,0.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"278\" height=\"310\" \/><\/td>\n<td valign=\"top\"><strong>The beginning of commercialization <\/strong>\n\nWhen Hawaii officially became the 51st state of the United States, more and more people travelled to the island. One of them was Jack London, who learned how to surf from journalist Alexander Ford in 1907, through whom he got to know George Freeth who was at this time the most popular and celebrated Waikiki Beach Boy. All three of them loved to surf and called surfing \u201cThe sport of the kings\u201d. London wrote in the very same year \u201cA royal sport: Surfing in Waikiki\u201d and founded the \u201cHawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club\u201d. This club was designed to retain the Hawaiian culture of surfing as well as offering board rental and surf courses. By 1915 there were already 1200 members in the Club. That year the world got to know Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, who happened to be the world champion at 100m freestyle and above all one of the best surfers of Hawaii. As a famous actor, he used his public appearances to make surfing more popular. Whilst on a surfing trip in Australia, he spontaneously shaped a board out of pine trees which he found near Manly Beach and formed the foundation stone for surfing Down Under.\nThe \u201cPacific Coast Surf Riding Championship\u201d was the first competition set up by Tom Blake- the inventor of fins - in Corona del Mar in 1928. The event was run for many years with the best surfers worldwide until the beginning of the Second World War saw an end to it. However there were enough people who weren\u2019t willing to give up the feeling of freedom when surfing. Three of them were Woodbridge Parker, Rabbit Kekai and John Kelly who significantly shaped the big wave spot of Makaha. They invented faster and lighter boards throughout the 30s, 40s and 50s.\n\n<strong>The era of modern surfing <\/strong>\nAfter 1946 boards were no longer made out of wood but foam. Bob Simmons shaped foam boards which contained rails made from balsa wood and a deck of ply wood. Shortly afterwards, Pete Peterson created a surfboard made of fibreglass which weighed only 12 kg. Fiberglass was invented during the Second World War and Hobie Alter and Gordon Clark were the first to shape boards which were made out of foam and fibreglass and therefore brought a revolution to the surfing market. Progress on surfboards themselves wasn\u2019t the only advance, as people were working on body protection in cold water conditions as well. At the beginning of the 50s, Jack O\u00b4Neil invented the first wetsuit. In 1953 the first picture was published in a newspaper, which spread throughout the world, and showed Woody Brown and two others surfing a giant wave in Makaha. At this time, surfing was booming in California and convinced many people to travel to Hawaii.\n\nTwo of them were Fred van Dyke and Peter Cole who shaped the era of big wave surfing along with Edie Aikau and Buffalo Keaulana. At this time, surfing became a fully accepted sport and conquered Hollywood as the \u201cSport of the Hawaiian Kings\u201d. Next to become popular was the clothing - from now on everyone was wearing board shorts and was listening to the songs of the Beach Boys. In 1966 the first short board was invented by Nat Young and measured 9\u00b44\u00b4\u00b4, which made surfing even more popular! Yes, you may be confused \u2013 Usually the short board measures up to 6\u00b411\u00b4\u00b4 - Nat Young was just the first to invent a board which was shorter than the others. If you want to find out more about the different board types: Click here\nNow dozens of people were surfing in places where years before only a few people were allowed. Surfboards were made out of plastic, became mass produced and got shorter and shorter as well as moving away from the old Hawaiian tradition. Today you will find a good dozen different surf magazines, videos and websites that talk about this unique sport. Surfing has conquered the globe!\nNevertheless; surfing is about fun and the connection with nature. We believe that surfing is a true gift from the Polynesians and we thank them for it.\n\nSources: Pictures: https:\/\/www.surfingforlife.com\/history.html; https:\/\/www.hawaiimagazine.com\/images\/content\/classic_Hawaii_art_Bishop_Museum\/Death%20of%20Cook.jpghttps:\/\/www.surfingforlife.com\/history2.html;https:\/\/glitterati-gossip.com\/.a\/6a01156f5ae6a9970c011572468c54970b-800wi;\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.smh.com.au\/ffximage\/2004\/03\/04\/keith_paull,0.jpg\">https:\/\/www.smh.com.au\/ffximage\/2004\/03\/04\/keith_paull,0.jpg<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-290766","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/290766","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=290766"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/290766\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":336604,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/290766\/revisions\/336604"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/244554"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=290766"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}