[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.16″ text_line_height=”2em” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
At that time, surfing was an essential part of Hawaiian culture. It was embedded in the society and myths of the island. Chiefs demonstrated their power through their surfing skills, and the status of a citizen was defined by how well he coped with the ocean. Anthropologists can only guess at the time of the origin of surfing in the Polynesian culture, as there is no precise information about the time and the development of the Polynesians. Around 2000 BC, the migration of people from Asia to the East Pacific began. Hawaii was reached by the first Polynesians in the 4th century B.C. Those who made the arduous journey from Tahiti to Hawaii were characterized by an extraordinary understanding and love of the sea. They brought their customs and traditions to Hawaii, including surfing.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.16″ text_line_height=”2em” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
CAPTAIN COOK DISCOVERS HAWAII AND SURFING<\/h2>\n
[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}” column_structure=”3_4,1_4″][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.4″ text_line_height=”2em” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n
When Captain Cook arrived in Hawaii on the Discovery, surfing was already firmly anchored in the history of Hawaii. Before the first encounter with Cook, Hawaii was strictly divided into classes, which also had an effect on the water: there were reef & beach breaks where only the skinned ones were allowed to surf and<\/a> those for the normal citizens. Many of Hawaii’s leaders were revered for their surfing skills.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/geschichte-surfen-2.png” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.4″ text_line_height=”2em” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n There were three types of Hawaiian surfboards: The Olo, up to 24ft (1 ft = 1 foot = 30,48 cm) high and thicker in the middle than at the ends, the Kiko’o, 18ft long and slightly thinner, a fast board, but very difficult to control and the Alaia, which was only for the chiefs, 8ft. long and thin, wide at the nose (top of the surboard) and tapering backwards. In 1778, when Cook’s ships reached the island, surfing was highly developed, but what Cook described in 1779 was the zenith for now. For in the shadow of European exploration, surfing experienced a major decline over the next 150 years. After Cook had published his research results, the island chain became a destination for many adventurers, captains and missionaries.<\/p>\n The Hawaiian culture suffered under the influence of imported new technologies and religions and thus the importance of surfing decreased. The indigenous people were educated to monotheism and hard daily work. The only thing that died faster than the culture was the Hawaiians themselves: Diseases, alcohol and other drugs claimed their victims and so the population shrank from about 600,000 in 1779 to just 40,000 in 1896. But despite this development, surfing survived.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.16″ text_line_height=”2em” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}” column_structure=”1_4,3_4″][et_pb_column type=”1_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/geschichte-surfen-3.png” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.4″ text_line_height=”2em” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n After the Hawaiian archipelago was annexed to the USA in 1900 as the 51st state, more and more people travelled the islands. One of them was Jack London, who learned to surf in 1907 from the journalist Alexander Ford Hume and thus also got to know the most celebrated Waikiki Beach Boy at that time, named George Freeth. All three had one thing in common: they loved the “sport of kings”. In the same year London wrote “A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki” and a year later they founded the “Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club”, the first club dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian surfing, offering rental boards<\/a> and surf lessons from beach cabins. By 1915 the club already had 1200 members.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.4″ text_line_height=”2em” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n Also in 1915, the world first became aware of Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, who was not only three-time world champion over 100 meters freestyle, but also one of the best surfers in Hawaii. As a world-renowned actor, he used his fame to spread the word about surfing. In 1915, he travelled to Australia as part of a swimming demonstration, spontaneously made (shapte) a board from pine wood, which he demonstrated at Freshwater Beach in Manly to great acclaim, and thus single-handedly laid the foundation for the “surf superpower Australia”.<\/p>\n In 1928 Tom Blake, the inventor of the fin, organized the first competition, the “Pacific Coast Surfriding Championships” in Corona del Mar. Top surfers from all countries competed with each other every year until 1941, when the Second World War put an end to the event. However, the trend of surfing continued and attracted freedom-seeking people such as Woodbridge Parker, who, together with Rabbit Kekai and John Kelly, a big wave pioneer, had a decisive influence on Spot Makaha. They were also the ones who developed faster and lighter boards in the 30s, 40s and 50s.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.16″ text_line_height=”2em” z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.4″ text_line_height=”2em” hover_enabled=”0″ z_index_tablet=”500″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n In 1946 the boards were no longer simply shaped from wood, but Bob Simmons made a foam-filled board with balsa wood rails and a deck of plywood. Shortly after, Pete Peterson took another step forward and developed a fiberglass board that weighed only 12 kg. Fiberglass had been developed during the Second World War. In 1958, Hobie Alter and Gordon Clark were the first to make boards entirely of foam and fiberglass, revolutionizing the market. But not only the boards became faster and lighter, research was also done on protection against cold water and so Jack O’Neill produced the first wetsuit in the early 50s.<\/p>\n In 1953 a photo appeared in newspapers around the world showing Woody Brown and two others surfing a gigantic wave in Makaha. At that time, surfing was booming in California and this picture moved many to Hawaiizu. Two of them were Fred van Dyke and Peter Cole, who together with Edie Aikau and Buffalo Keaulana became the best big wave surfers of that era. During these years surfing developed from a marginal sport to a mainstream sport.<\/p>\n From this time on, Hollywood also loved the sport of kings and the market was literally flooded with surf movies<\/a> like “Gidget” or “The Endless Summer. Along with this boom came the surf fashion, everybody wore board shorts and listened to the songs of the beach boys. Everything that had to do with surfing was absolutely hyped. In 1966 Nat Young produced the first 9’4” board and thus ushered in the era of the shortboard<\/a>, making the sport even more booming.<\/p>\n Where once only a dozen people surfed, thousands now joined in. Surfboards were now made of plastic, mass-produced and ever shorter, far from the ancient Hawaiian roots. Now there are dozens of surf<\/a> magazines, videos, movies, and websites about surfing worldwide, and a multi-million dollar market has developed that spans the globe.<\/p>\n Despite commercialization, the greatest benefit of surfing is the fun and special connection with nature for millions of people around the world. Surfing is an element of traditional Hawaiian culture that has survived into modern times and brings many other aspects of Hawaiian life – surfing is truly a gift from Polynesia to the world.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" A gift from Polynesia to the whole world “Sometimes 20-30 men go out to sea with the swell of the surf, lie flat on an oval piece of wood of their size and width, leave their feet directly on it and use their arms to steer the wooden plank. They wait until the surf is […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":72725,"parent":19589,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"THE START OF COMMERCIALISATION<\/h2>\n
THE ERA OF MODERN SURFING<\/h2>\n
Ein Geschenk von Polynesien an die ganze Welt<\/h4>
![\"\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/surf11.png\" "\\"surf1\\"") <\/td> | Manchmal gehen 20-30 M\u00e4nner mit dem Wellengang der Brandung aufs Meer, legen sich flach auf ein ovales St\u00fcck Holz ihrer Gr\u00f6\u00dfe und Breite, lassen ihre F\u00fc\u00dfe direkt darauf und nutzen ihre Arme, um die Holzplanke zu steuern. Sie warten, bis die Brandung am H\u00f6chsten ist, und paddeln alle zusammen mit den Armen, um auf der Spitze der Wellen zu bleiben und mit erstaunlicher Geschwindigkeit Richtung Strand zu rauschen(\u2026)\".So beschrieb im Jahre 1779 Leutnant James King, der Kommandeur der Discovery, im Schiffslogbuch als erster Europ\u00e4er das hawaiianische Surfen.Zu dieser Zeit war Wellenreiten ein wesentlicher Teil der hawaiianischen Kultur. Es war eingebettet in Gesellschaft und Mythen der Insel. H\u00e4uptlinge demonstrierten Ihre Macht durch ihre Surfk\u00fcnste und der Stand eines B\u00fcrgers definierte sich dar\u00fcber, wie gut er mit dem Ozean zurechtkam. Anthropologen k\u00f6nnen den Zeitpunkt des Ursprungs des Surfens in der Polynesischen Kultur nur erraten, da es keine genauen Angaben \u00fcber den Zeitpunkt und die Entwicklung der Polynesier gibt. Um 2000 v. Chr. begann die Abwanderung von Menschen aus Asien in die ostpazifischen Gebiete. Hawaii erreichten die ersten Polynesier im 4. Jahrhundert v. Chr. Diejenigen, die den beschwerlichen Weg von Tahiti nach Hawaii antraten, zeichnete ein au\u00dfergew\u00f6hnliches Verst\u00e4ndnis und eine grenzenlose Liebe zum Meer aus. Sie brachten ihre Sitten und Gebr\u00e4uche mit nach Hawaii, wozu auch das Surfen geh\u00f6rte.<\/td><\/tr> |
![\"\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/surf22.png\" "\\"surf2\\"") <\/td> | Als Captain Cook mit der Discovery auf Hawaii ankam, war das Surfen in der Geschichte Hawaiis schon fest verankert. Orte wurden legend\u00e4ren Surfereignissen gewidmet und es wurden besondere Rituale entwickelt, um neue Boards zu taufen, den Swell zu f\u00f6rdern und um den M\u00e4nnern und Frauen, die sich an die gro\u00dfen Wellen herantrauten, Mut zuzusprechen.Vor dem ersten Kontakt mit Cook war Hawaii strikt in Klassen unterteilt, was sich auch auf das Wasser auswirkte: Es gab Reef & Beachbreaks, an denen nur die H\u00e4utplinge surfen durften und eben solche f\u00fcr die normalen B\u00fcrger. Viele von Hawaiis Anf\u00fchrern wurden aufgrund ihrer Surfk\u00fcnste verehrt. Es gab drei Typen von hawaiianischen Surfboards: Das Olo, bis zu 24ft (1 ft = 1 Fu\u00df = 30,48 cm) hoch und in der Mitte dicker als an den Enden, das Kiko\u2018o, 18ft lang und etwas d\u00fcnner, ein schnelles Brett, das jedoch sehr schwer zu steuern war und das Alaia, das nur den H\u00e4uptlingen zustand, 8ft. lang und d\u00fcnn, breit an der Nose (Spitze des Surboards) und sich nach hinten verj\u00fcngend. 1778, als Cooks Schiffe die Insel erreichten, war das Surfen hoch entwickelt, aber das, was Cook 1779 beschrieb, war vorerst der Zenit. Denn im Schatten der Erforschung durch die Europ\u00e4er erlebte das Surfen in den folgenden 150 Jahren einen gro\u00dfen R\u00fcckgang. Nachdem Cook seine Forschungsergebnisse ver\u00f6ffentlicht hatte, wurde die Inselkette zum Ziel f\u00fcr viele Abenteurer, Kapit\u00e4ne und Missionare. Unter dem Einfluss der importierten neuen Technologien und Religionen litten die hawaiianische Kultur und somit lie\u00df auch die Bedeutung des Surfens nach. Die Ureinwohner wurden zum Monotheismus und zur harten t\u00e4glichen Arbeit erzogen. Das einzige, was schneller starb als die Kultur, waren die Hawaiianer selbst: Seuchen, Alkohol und andere Drogen forderten ihre Opfer und so schrumpfte die Population von in der Zeit von 1779 bis 1896 von ca. 600.000 auf gerade einmal 40.000 in 1896. Doch trotz dieser Entwicklung \u00fcberlebte das Surfen.<\/td><\/tr> |
![\"\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/surf31.png\" "\\"surf3\\"") <\/td> | Der Beginn der Kommerzialisierung<\/h4>Nachdem das hawaiianische Archipel 1900 als 51. Staat an die USA angegliedert wurde, bereisten immer mehr Menschen die Inseln. Einer von ihnen war Jack London, der 1907 von dem Journalisten Alexander Ford Hume surfen lernte und so auch den zu dieser Zeit meist gefeierten Waikiki Beach Boy namens George Freeth kennen lernte. Alle drei hatten eines gemeinsam: Sie liebten den \u201eSport der K\u00f6nige\u201c. Im gleichen Jahr noch schrieb London \u201eA Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki\u201c und ein Jahr sp\u00e4ter gr\u00fcndeten sie den \u201eHawaiian Outrigger Canoe Club\u201c, den ersten Club, der sich der Bewahrung des hawaiianischen Wellenreitens widmete und aus Strandh\u00fctten Leih-Boards sowie Surfunterricht anbot. 1915 hatte der Club 1200 Mitglieder. \u00a0 Ebenfalls 1915 wurde die Welt das erste Mal auf Duke Paoa Kahanamoku aufmerksam, der nicht nur dreimaliger Weltmeister \u00fcber 100 Meter Freistil war, sondern auch zu den besten Surfern Hawaiis z\u00e4hlte. Als weltweit angesehener Schauspieler nutzte er seinen Ruhm, um das Surfen zu verbreiten. 1915 reiste er im Rahmen einer Schwimmvorf\u00fchrung nach Australien, fertigte (shapte) sich dort spontan ein Board aus Pinienholz, das er am Freshwater Beach in Manly unter gro\u00dfem Aufsehen vorf\u00fchrte, und legte so im Alleingang den Grundstein f\u00fcr die \u201eSurf-Supermacht Australien\u201c. 1928 organisierte Tom Blake, der Erfinder der Finne, den ersten Wettkampf, die \u201ePacific Coast Surfriding Championships\u201c in Corona del Mar. Top Surfer aller L\u00e4nder konkurrierten j\u00e4hrlich miteinander, bis 1941 der zweite Weltkrieg dem Event ein Ende setzte. Jedoch hielt der Trend des Surfens an und zog Freihheit suchende Menschen wie Woodbridge Parker an, der zusammen mit Rabbit Kekai und John Kelly, einem Big-Wave-Pionier, den Spot Makaha entscheidend pr\u00e4gte. Auch sie waren es, die in den 30er, 40er und 50er Jahren immer schnellere und leichtere Boards entwickelten.<\/p><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-19592","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/19592","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19592"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/19592\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":333560,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/19592\/revisions\/333560"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/19589"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/72725"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freshsurf.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19592"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}} |